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Understanding the different types of gold in jewelry making

Gold has been prized for thousands of years for its beauty, rarity, and malleability. It’s no wonder that gold continues to be one of the most sought-after materials in jewellery making. However, not all gold is the same—there are different types of gold, each with its own properties, uses, and benefits. Whether you’re crafting a […]

Gold has been prized for thousands of years for its beauty, rarity, and malleability. It’s no wonder that gold continues to be one of the most sought-after materials in jewellery making. However, not all gold is the same—there are different types of gold, each with its own properties, uses, and benefits. Whether you’re crafting a piece of jewellery or choosing a ring or necklace to buy, understanding the different types of gold is crucial. 

In this article, we’ll explore pure gold, gold alloys, and the different colours of gold, helping you make informed decisions when working with or purchasing this precious metal:

Shot of a finished pair of earrings, presumably made from white gold
Arif khan on Canva

Pure gold (24K)

When we think of gold, the first image that often comes to mind is a shiny, yellow metal. Pure gold, also known as 24-karat gold (24K), is the highest quality of gold available. It’s made of 99.9% gold, with very little to no impurities. This makes it incredibly soft and malleable, meaning it can be easily shaped and worked into jewellery.

While pure gold is stunning, it’s not always practical for jewellery. Because of its softness, it can scratch and bend easily, which makes it less durable than other types of gold. For this reason, pure gold is typically used in jewellery pieces that don’t undergo much wear and tear, such as gold coins, commemorative jewellery, or delicate pieces like thin chains or light earrings. In some cultures, 24K gold is preferred for engagement rings or wedding bands, as it is considered the most valuable form of gold.

Despite its beauty, 24K gold is not the ideal choice for every piece of jewellery. Its softness can cause problems with everyday items, which is why most jewellers prefer to work with gold alloys.

Alloys and karats

In most jewellery making, pure gold is mixed with other metals to create gold alloys. The process of alloying gold allows for a stronger, more durable piece of jewellery, while also giving the metal different properties such as colour, hardness, and texture. These alloys are measured in karats (K) in the US, which indicate the percentage of pure gold in the alloy.

A word on alloys in the US and Europe

In both the US and Europe, gold alloys are measured by karats (K), which indicate the percentage of pure gold in the alloy. In the US, the most common standards are 10K, 14K, 18K, and 22K, with 24K representing pure gold. For example, 18K gold contains 75% pure gold and 25% other metals, while 14K gold has 58.3% pure gold. 

In Europe, however, the purity of gold is often measured in millesimal fineness, where the percentage of pure gold is expressed as parts per thousand. For instance, 18K gold in Europe is often labelled as 750, indicating 75% gold content. While the karat system is more commonly used in the US, the European system of millesimal fineness provides a more precise measurement of gold purity. Both systems are used internationally, but it’s essential to understand the difference, particularly when buying or selling gold jewellery across regions.

18K gold

One of the most common alloys used in jewellery is 18K gold. This alloy contains 75% pure gold and 25% other metals such as copper, silver, or palladium. The higher gold content makes 18K gold a luxurious choice, with a beautiful rich gold colour. It strikes a perfect balance between the softness of pure gold and the durability of alloys, making it ideal for jewellery that will be worn regularly, like rings, bracelets, and pendants.

14K gold

14K gold contains 58.3% pure gold, with the remaining 41.7% made up of other metals. It’s more affordable than 18K gold and is also more durable, as the higher percentage of alloy metals adds strength. 14K gold is a popular choice for pieces that will experience a lot of wear and tear, such as everyday rings, watches, or earrings. It’s not as rich in gold colour as 18K, but it still maintains the distinct golden shine that people love.

10K gold

The lowest standard for gold jewellery in many countries, 10K gold contains 41.7% pure gold. While 10K gold is more affordable, it is also less pure and slightly less yellow in colour than higher-karat gold. This gold alloy is often used in budget-friendly jewellery options, but it is still durable and suitable for everyday wear.

Gold alloys are often chosen based on a combination of factors: durability, cost, and the desired look. If you want a piece that combines the richness of gold with added strength, alloys like 18K or 14K are great choices.

“Gold alloys are where tradition meets innovation—blending purity with strength to create timeless pieces that stand the test of time.”

Shot of a goldsmithing working with a blow torch
Antoni Shkraba on Canva

Gold colours

Gold comes in more than just the traditional yellow hue—over time, different gold alloys have been developed to create a range of beautiful colours. The most common gold colours are yellow, white, and rose gold, each with its own unique appeal.

Yellow gold

Yellow gold is the most traditional and recognisable type of gold. It has a warm, rich tone and is often associated with classic, timeless jewellery designs. This colour of gold is created by mixing pure gold with a small amount of copper and silver, which enhances its natural yellow hue. Yellow gold is popular for engagement rings, wedding bands, and fine jewellery, as it complements all skin tones and never goes out of style.

White gold

White gold is created by alloying gold with metals like palladium, nickel, or silver, which give it a silvery-white finish. White gold is often coated with rhodium, a metal that enhances its lustre and gives it a bright, shiny finish. White gold is a popular alternative to platinum, as it has a similar appearance but is generally more affordable. This colour of gold is favoured in contemporary and modern jewellery, especially for engagement rings, where it can create a sophisticated and clean look.

Rose gold

Rose gold, also known as pink or red gold, is created by alloying gold with copper, which gives it its signature reddish-pink hue. This romantic and unique colour has surged in popularity in recent years, often used in trendy jewellery such as bracelets, rings, and necklaces. The warm, subtle tones of rose gold complement both vintage and modern designs, making it a versatile and stylish choice.

Each gold colour has its own appeal, and choosing the right one largely depends on personal preference and the overall style of the jewellery piece.

So many choices: Alloy, durability, colour

Choosing the right type of gold for your jewellery project is an important decision, and it all depends on the balance of purity, durability, colour, and cost that works best for your needs. Pure 24K gold is beautiful but soft and best suited for delicate, low-wear pieces. Gold alloys like 18K and 14K are more durable, with 18K offering a luxurious richness and 14K providing a more affordable, sturdy option for everyday jewellery. Lastly, the colour of gold—yellow, white, or rose—offers additional choices to reflect your personal style.

By understanding the differences in gold types, you can ensure your jewellery is not only stunning but also practical for its intended use. Whether you’re creating your own piece or purchasing a new treasure, the right gold can make all the difference in creating a piece that’s not just beautiful, but timeless.

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